In
1929 Pascoal sailed from the harbour of Murmagao for the port of
Mombasa on the east coast of Africa. This was his second ocean
voyage; and it was longer than the previous trip to
Karachi.
Disembarking at Mombasa, Pascoal found himself in a bright,
sunny tropical paradise that startled him because of its close
resemblance to Goa. It was equally warm and humid on this rocky
coast. But of course, the African people who inhabited it were so
different.
Following instructions Pascoal caught a train to Nairobi -
capital of the Kenya colony. On the journey he observed that the
train was manned by European personnel. Yet he was pleasantly
surprised to discover Asians on the staff and several Goan stewards
attending to the catering. As the train snaked its way through dense
jungle and arid thorn bush tracts, he looked out of the window and
saw that the land was teeming with wild life: fierce and ferocious
lions, herds of elephants, tall stately giraffe, zebra, wildebeest,
cheetah, and a host of smaller predators. There were also big
ostriches strutting about, and birds of every hue. When Pascoal woke
next morning, the terrain was changing and the train was climbing.
He was greeted at the terminus by his brother-in-law Andre Mendonca
who took him to his sister and their family at home in the railway
quarters. It was a happy re-union.
Nairobi, being at a high altitude, was very cold. Pascoal
had to wear a number of pull-overs by day, and tuck himself under a
layer of woolen blankets by night. He spent several months relaxing
in the company of his sister and her family, observing life in this
wondrously beautiful new continent. His ear soon got attuned to
hearing the local dialect spoken freely all around him.
Gradually, the young man began to pick up a smattering of
Swahili words and phrases to compile a parallel
vocabulary.
The
Goans
Pascoal met a number of Goans living in Nairobi, most of
them in the lower ranks of the Kenya Government Administration. They
knew how to toe the line, and were meek and subservient to the
British authorities. For this was very much the white man's
preserve: the Africans were downtrodden, and could not aspire to
enter the colonial service.
However, Goans enjoyed positions of trust in the Government
and had a good reputation for honesty and integrity. The few Goans
who were in independent business and trade appeared to be quite
prosperous. But all the same, those who were in white collar jobs in
the administration enjoyed greater prestige in the eyes of their
compatriots.
On the
whole the Goans, who had started coming into Kenya at the turn of
the century when the railways were being established, had achieved
good standing. A few had even created a niche for themselves as
doctors and lawyers,some had entered the public arena and a street
in Nairobi was named after the pioneers, Dr. Ribeiro and Julio
Campos. Through their endeavours and the subsequent leadership of
Dr. A.C.L. de Sousa, the community could boast its very own Goan
School in Nairobi and several smaller ones in other
towns.
Yet
Goans strangely, did not merge even into the Asian mainstream. In
fact, they regarded themselves "Portuguese" because they were
Portuguese subjects. They considered themselves devout Catholics and
attended services in the church which they had helped to build in
Nairobi to honour their patron St. Francis Xavier. They strictly
adhered to the western way of life, took pride in their knowledge of
English and Portuguese, and separated themselves from those Asians
who were not so proficient and maintained traditional dress or
customs.
Yet
ironically the Goans clung to the age-old Indian system of caste.
This attitude went so far that, apart from strictly refraining from
inter-caste marriage, the taboo extended itself to the formation of
separate and exclusive social clubs.
Even
with this fleeting exposure, young Pascoal came to learn the ropes.
Though he saw several opportunities for jobs, he decided to bide his
time until an opening into Government service appeared. So it was
only as late as 2nd October 1929 that he joined the provincial
administration in a clerical capacity. For a short while he served
in the office of the District Commissioner in Nairobi. Smart and
observant, he rapidly learned whatever he could. And then quite
suddenly he was sent on a posting.
Frontier postings
When
Pascoal came to know that he was to be despatched far away to a
border outpost, he was dismayed. But realising that this was the
routine procedure for a new recruit and there was no option if he
was to stay on in service, he manfully accepted. And so, for a long
stretch of nineteen years this service carried him to almost all the
provinces including the remote and arid regions of the bleak
Northern Frontier District. It was an uphill task but Pascoal faced
the grim challenge, determined to put his his best foot forward and
climb up the ladder.
His
first posting took him to Wajir, deep in the northern desert. It was
quite a strenuous trip. More often stores were transported on the
back of camels moving in a long procession through the desert. He
was provided with train accommodation to make the first lap of the
journey: from Nairobi to Nanyuki Onward to Meru he travelled by
lorry. Here he rested for a few days with his cousin Aloysious de
Mello.
Then
leaving Meru early in the morning, he moved on in a convoy of
trucks, much exposed to the heat and dust while perched on top of a
six-wheeler truck. Nights were spent in tents pitched close to one
another. More often the only water available came from dirty ponds.
At Archer's Post there was a river crossing which occupied the
entire hot day. The night was spent on the other bank.
Early
next morning, while it was still cool and pleasant the convoy moved
on. The next stop was Absweny - its exotic Welsh name a nostalgic
reminder for the British colonials! This proved surprisingly most
welcome - a small outpost with a water-point! Stopping here to eat
and be refreshed, the party resumed the last lap of the desert
journey. It was late in the evening when they finally reached Wajir,
their destination!
On
arrival Pascoal got a warm welcome from A.F.R. Dias, the Goan
District Clerk, whom he would be replacing. He was made most
comfortable that night and enjoyed a well-earned rest after the
rigours of the road.
Dias
introduced the new-comer to Haji Bilal Teno Khamos who took over as
Cashier, and more significantly to Luis Barreto. This Goan Customs
Clerk subsequently became Pascoal's "guide, philosopher and friend".
For Barreto also turned out to be a wonderful companion in that
desert wilderness. Pascoal learned from him to use a shot-gun to
advantage. The region abounded in guinea fowl, partridge and other
game birds. Two and half years in this desolate outpost might
otherwise have been boring and frustrating; but time seemed to just
fly when, to his chagrin, Pascoal was transferred to Bura. He was
loath to leave his new friend, but again - no option!
So to
Bura Pascoal went by truck. It was another remote station, to the
south, on the Thana river. He was sent to relieve the District Clerk
who had taken ill. The man was one M.D. Pereira - better known as
"Mad Pereira". Pascoal did find him rather whimsical. The settlement
was situated on the bank of the river, surrounded by tall elephant
grass, and infested with vicious snakes. The hut he occupied was
also made of grass, and he was constantly uneasy - aware of the
presence of reptiles and other crawly creatures lurking
there.
It was
altogether a nasty experience for even Harrison Lloyd, the
"D.C."/District Commissioner - was a difficult person to work for.
Fortunately however, his assistant, the A.D.C., Edward Beetham, was
altogether a different cup of tea. Then a junior officer, fresh from
Oxford, he was pleasant and considerate. Later he rose to be
Governor of Ghana! Pascoal was glad of his next posting which,
fortunately, came quite quickly. He was transferred to Moyale, a
station situated still further north on the border between Kenya and
Abyssinia. They lived in barricaded enclosures for fear of wild
animals. There were just two European officers. The place was truly
remote and undeveloped. The tribes seemed wild. Yet here Pascoal
encountered a well-known and popular Goan personality - Julio da
Costa. Unlike most Goans, this Goan District Clerk had integrated
with the environment. He married a local Boran girl by whom he had a
son, and so fluently could he speak the local dialect that he was
considered a member of the tribe. Pascoal was
learning all he could, all the time. He worked under da Costa and
imbibed his work ethic. The District Comissioner was Gerald Reece
who later went to British Somaliland as Governor, and was
subsequently knighted. It was from Reece that young Pascoal learnt
horse-riding and tennis. Though a firm disciplinarian, Reece was
warm-hearted and generous. When he was leaving Moyale he presented
his pony to Pascoal.
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Pascoal in Moyale |
Market
scene in Moyale |
Pascoal's next posting transferred him to Isiolo, the
headquarters of the district. Here he remained until his first home
leave in 1933. He had come a long way. For four years he had served
as Cashier and District Clerk in the Northern Province. But this was
still only just the start of his career.
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